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From Rantenpao, Sulawesi, Indonesia   
Friday, March 14, 2008

Image
images of the dead buried in the mountain
The 10hr bus ride wasn't too bad... the scenery was absolutely stunning. There were limestone mountains puffy with palm trees, several large volcanic mountains & an eerie area with weird large slabs jutting out of the earth... certainly the result of serious tectonic activity! Plus there were terraced rice paddies... all really, gorgeous... enough to entertain me for hours!

But it all wasn't lovely. The town's completely controlled by tour guide gangsters. I show up in town & 3 were waiting for me. Another tried to come to room. The next day they follow me to a different hotel. They'd even follow me into restaurants, saying they're helping because the owner doesn't speak English.

I'm used to having a following but when guides told a local driver he couldn't go where I wanted to go, that was too much! I got ready to split the next day. But then I met this American who convinced me to stay & join his group the next day.

So glad I did! We saw the most beautiful rice terraces & funky boat shaped houses with 2 dozen buffalo horns hung in the front. Plus the ghouly stuff I came for... trees with holes for dead babies, hills with a hundred caves for coffins & balconies filled with wooden images of dead people. But even better, the following day we went to a funeral ceremony & got to see a buffalo sacrifice.


Tags:  Sulawesi Indonesia guides death
 
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