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Hitchin' Across Kenya with Obama's Help E-mail
From Nairobi, Kenya   
Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Sans signs, most borders are transparent. But Ethiopia/Kenya... like night & day. Ethiopia echoed with cries of "You! You! You! Money! Money! Money!" & the Ethiopian border guards were asses that made me wait while touts tried to con me.

Finally get to walk into Kenya... the pavement ends, the border guards smile, & nice people, who don't want money, give me directions. Few hours later realize gotta go back... I'd walked right into Kenya without getting a visa!! But tell the guards I'm trying to get to Nairobi to party when Obama wins... & it's no problem.

Onward transport... now that's a problem. Couldn't arrange anything for the next day... but talked to loads of great people. Early the next morning, still having problems with transport, mention I'm trying to get to Nairobi to party when Obama wins... 20mins later, I'm in the back of a covered Toyota Landcruiser.

Sounds luxurious. It was anything but! Metal bench of a seat & again, the road's not paved... & there's REALLY big potholes & rocks. Bounced around & bruised so badly, felt like a piece of popcorn. After flopping on the floor the 2nd time in the 1st hour, realizing there's 7 more hours of this, wondering what I'd gotten myself into, started crying a bit. But put on my headphones & the first song that plays... a beautiful travel song which reminded me it's all worth it.

The truck eventually stops... flat tire. No problem, there's 3 spares. While waiting, talk to the passenger on the cushy front seat. Turns out he's a Catholic priest & he offers to share his seat with me. Overly unselfish, tell him there's a very old man in back that needs it more. But good news... since it's a small truck with a maniac driver, the journey's 4hrs not 8.

Finally get to Marsabit, the next town... find a great $5 room, set in a garden, with hot water & satellite TV. But turn on the TV... 16 channels ALL with the same Christian Evangelist! That's ok... my body's exhausted & sleep all afternoon. At night, talk to tons of great, friendly people. Except one... a drunk grabbed my ass & next thing I know, like a lynch mob, the group beats him up! Badly!

Next day, only one cattle truck's going my way... & it's raining. The hotel's nice enough... decide to take my chances tomorrow. But mention Obama again & a group of Kenyan businessmen offer to take me with them later that afternoon. Kill the time talking to other great guests & when it's time to go... everyone tells me they'll miss me. Oh & the truck these businessmen have... softest seat my poor, bruised butt could ever hope for... & a seatbelt to keep me from flying in the air. Even better... on the way see mongeese, baboons, jackals, huge groups of camels & even a small herd of elephants!!!

Get to the next town... decide to push on to Nairobi the next morning. Pack, about to walk out the door, realize I'd left my jacket in yesterday's truck! And don't know how to get a hold of those guys. All I know is the name of the town we came from & that they build dams. Well Obama's been good to me... decide to up the anti... tell everyone in town I need to get to Nairobi to VOTE for Obama. And EVERYONE starts searching! I'm taken on a motorcycle to look for the truck. Amazingly we find it! But some kid's just taken off with my jacket. Head back to town & pass a boy running as fast as he can with my jacket! I see him, he sees me, jump off the motorcycle & he drops to his knees & holds my jacket above his head!! The 3 of us get on the motorcycle & head back to town.

Since this is several hours later, the bus is now gone. But some guy offers to take me with him & his friend to Nairobi. Little did I know I'd first have to have tea, then lunch at both their houses... then meet everyone in the neighborhood... then go to church to have the car blessed! After we all pray, finally take off singing "Cumbyja My Lord", "He's Got the Whole World in His Hands" & every other Sunday school song I've tried to forget!

Don't know if it's that Kenyans are that nice or Obama's that good... either way, I've sure been lucky!


Tags:  Kenya
 
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